The Nakasendo Trail: Where History Meets Adventure

The Nakasendo Trail, nestled in the enchanting Kiso Valley, stands as Japan’s premier destination for discerning travelers seeking a luxurious blend of scenic walking, immersive hiking, and an authentic exploration of traditional Japan. With its backdrop of stunning alpine nature and old vernacular architecture, this historic trading route that once connected old-Edo (present day Tokyo) with the ancient capital of Kyoto has been passed along by centuries of rural folk, traders, nobility and samurai. On the Nakasendo Trail, you will come across footpaths and post towns that are rich with stories, masterful artisanal crafts and a profound sense of timelessness. 

The 85-kilometre section through the Kiso Valley in Gifu and Nagano – known as the Kiso Road (Kisoji) – was once part of the Owari Domain, the birthplace of Ieyasu Tokugawa, the warrior founder and first shōgun of the Tokugawa dynasty (not to mention the subject of Netflix’s recent, multi-award-winning Shōgun).

Supporting Responsible Travel

Accessibility and straightforward navigation of the Nakasendo have made it a popular choice for travellers walking the route unguided. However, exploring without a guide means missing out on the chance to fully immerse yourself in the rich culture shared by local artisans, such as master woodcrafters and lacquerware makers. These skilled experts and knowledgeable guides provide invaluable insights that can greatly enhance and enrich your journey along the trail.

Our goal is to help visitors discover and experience aspects of Japan they never even knew existed. Our guide to the Nakasendo is designed to facilitate deeper, more meaningful connections with local culture and communities, all while fostering a legacy of sustainable and positive-impact tourism.

Working with our top local guides is fundamental to creating a positive impact. The income they earn helps sustain the local economy, generating job opportunities in areas facing population decline. Moreover, these guides bring unmatched knowledge and passion, offering unique and enriching experiences through their deep insights and local connections.

In our recent research trip to Nakasendo we worked with Kiso residents; Koshi-san and Nick to enhance and expand our itineraries.

Koshi-san

Born and raised in Kiso-Fukushima, one of the post towns on the Nakasendo Highway, Koshi-san travelled and worked around the world before he discovered how precious and irreplaceable the Kiso area is to him. He has come to have the desire to share his passion for the area with others – particularly those from overseas. He is now one of the area’s most experienced and respected guides, as well as a pioneer in developing new experiences and trails for his customers. 

Nick

Originally from the UK, he began working as an interpreter/translator in Japan in 2014. Nick has now devoted his time to introducing the world to Kiso’s fascinating nature, history, culture, food, and (most importantly) passionate, hard-working people. He loves taking customers along the trails and introducing them to the skilled craftspeople along the Kiso valley.

Exploring Beyond the Iconic Trails

Tsumago-Magome Trail

The most popular hike in the Owari Domain is the famous 8-kilometre Magome-Tsumago trail, connecting the two beautiful historic towns, offering breathtaking views of mountains, lush forests, and waterfalls. Both towns are steeped in history and culture, with Tsumago in particular, remarkably well preserved. 

The trail offers travellers the chance to immerse themselves in the landscape and experience rural Japan as it appeared to ranks of samurai centuries ago. Along the way, you’ll encounter traditional inns, peaceful pathways, and glimpses of local life, offering a deeper connection to Japan’s past. It’s a perfect introduction to the timeless beauty and history of the Nakasendo.

The Torii Pass

The 7-kilometre Torii Pass hike, named after a gate built by a victorious warrior, was once considered a perilous journey. Today, it offers a more manageable trek, culminating in the beautifully preserved post town of Narai, fondly referred to as “Narai of a Thousand Inns.”

Starting at Yabuhara Station the tour explores the town’s history and crafts before hiking up the Torii Pass. The route features cobblestone paths (ishidatami), valley views, a rest stop with refreshments and culminates in a descent to the post town of Narai.

From Crafts to Culture: Things to Do on the Nakasendo

The Nakasendo is a journey not only through breathtaking landscapes but also through rich culture and craftsmanship. Along the trail, visitors can explore ancient teahouses, engage with local artisans, and discover time-honoured traditions. From learning about woodcraft to experiencing the artistry of lacquerware, the route offers a unique chance to connect with the region’s heritage and support its skilled creators.Let’s take a closer look: 

Yamaichi Woodcraft

The high-quality timber harvested in Kiso was valued all over Japan for its use in building castles and shrines. In its post towns – frequented by travelling merchants – the abundance of quality lumber gave rise to fine wood craftsmanship and lacquerware industries.

Kazuo Ogura runs Yamaichi Ogura Rokuro Crafts, a fifth-generation woodcraft company producing irresistible (and manageably sized) decorative items as well as furniture. His well-developed experience includes a fascinating explanation of the localities’ woodcraft history, a demonstration, and the chance to attempt using a hand-powered lathe.

Oroku Comb Artisans

As with most other utilities, Japanese craftsmanship took them to a whole new level. Oroku comb artisanry of Yabuhara, now a dying art, once thrived due to their unbelievably intricate craftsmanship and utility beyond the obvious, including creating elaborate styles for Geisha and Sumo Wrestlers, as well as hair-decorations. Visitors may drop in to admire the legendary artisanship and/or join in a short hands-on experience.

Kiso Hirasawa Lacquerware

Kiso Hirasawa in Shiojiri City is a mecca of Kiso lacquerware which to this day is renowned Japan-wide for its craftsmanship and durability. A well-preserved, picturesque area in its own right, it has a history of over 400 years, with over 20 specialist shops still operating. Here you’ll get the chance to meet the ever so charming Nozomi-san, the daughter of the Chikiriya Lacquerware 6th generation family store owner, She uses her painting skills to make uniquely decorative (and “kawaii”) styles of lacquerware. For those with an artistic flair, she offers her own workshop to create a piece of their own.

Relax and Recharge

One of Kisoji’s many stories is that of Biyaku Narai, a luxurious ryokan (Japanese inn) in Narai-juku, the highest post of the 69 post towns on the Nakasendo. Created from the restoration and reinvention of four 200-year-old buildings – including a former Shuzo sake brewery and lacquerware shop – Biyaku Narai has 16 guest rooms, a comfortable lounge, restaurant, bar gallery and bathhouse, across its dispersed setting in the mountain town. Local connections are integral to a stay here, and immersive experiences offered include hands-on lacquerware craft and private guiding along this stretch of the Nakasendo.

Our recommendation is for at least 2 nights at the Byaku Narai using it as the base for a full exploration of Nakasendo. As with all our tours, they can be tailored to the specific interests and requirements of our clients.